Europe 2010: Day 4

I woke up very late on my fourth day in the UK after drinking far too much the night before. The plan for the day was that I would explore Edinburgh while Dan finished up some work. On my agenda was Edinburgh Castle, Greyfriars Bobby, and Greyfriars Kirkyard. After packing my bag into the car, I headed for the other side of the city.

Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle

I wandered down into the valley between downtown and the castle and found myself in a park. Unfortunately, there was no obvious (legal) way to get to the castle from there, so I backtracked back up to the downtown area and crossed over to the old part of town via one of the bridges. The arduous climb to the castle made it clear why they had chosen that spot for its construction so long ago! I made my way through the castle gates, paid for my entry, and began experiencing all the wonderful sights.

Edinburgh CastleView From Edinburgh CastleView From Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle ChapelEdinburgh Chapel Stained Glass WindowEdinburgh Chapel Stained Glass Window

View From Edinburgh CastleCannon at Edinburgh CastleEdinburgh Castle

It took me around two hours to get through the entire castle; I ignored the audio tour for the most part, but I did spend quite a bit of time looking at the Scottish crown jewels. Unfortunately, I was not allowed to take any pictures.

Dan’s girlfriend, Sharon, had told me that I should seek out Greyfriars Bobby, so I decided to do that before I left for Glasgow. Here is a summary of story of Greyfriars Bobby:

Bobby belonged to John Gray, who worked for the Edinburgh City Police as a night watchman, and the two were inseparable for approximately two years. On 8 February 1858, Gray died of tuberculosis. He was buried in Greyfriars Kirkyard, the graveyard surrounding Greyfriars Kirk in the Old Town of Edinburgh. Bobby, who survived Gray by fourteen years, is said to have spent the rest of his life sitting on his master’s grave.

In 1867, when it was argued that a dog without an owner should be destroyed, the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Sir William Chambers—who was also a director of the Scottish Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals—paid for a renewal of Bobby’s licence, making him the responsibility of the city council.

Bobby died in 1872 and could not be buried within the cemetery itself, since it was and remains consecrated ground. He was buried instead just inside the gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard, not far from John Gray’s grave.

Following my map, I made my way toward Greyfriars Kirkyard to find statue and the grave of Greyfriars Bobby. As this is the older part of Edinburgh, I found myself walking again along beautiful narrow cobblestone streets. After a short trek, I managed to find what I was looking for!

Grave of Greyfriars BobbyStatue of Greyfriars BobbyGrave of John Gray

Greyfriars Kirkyard is a beautiful place and a short walk from downtown. I highly recommend that you head over and take a look if you’re visiting Edinburgh.

Soon after, I met up with Dan and we packed into the car and started the drive toward Glasgow. Traffic was awful and it took us far longer than it should have, but eventually we pulled into a car park in Glasgow. From the car park we walked about a mile to our hostel, made our beds, and chatted with a few of the fellows we were staying with. They tipped us off to check out the bars on Byres Road, so we left the hostel to find food and beer. The rest of our evening was largely uneventful; we wandered between a few pubs, drank some local beer, and ate greasy takeaway. Through a great deal of luck we found our way back to the hostel and collapsed for the night.

Europe 2010: Day 3

On the morning of the 27th I bought my first train ticket.

My Train to Edinburgh

When I woke up that morning I spoke to Dan and it turned out that he had some errands to run that would take him most of the day. Since I was not going to waste my time running errands, I asked him to drop me off at the train station. I made my way over to the ticket terminal and purchased a one-way ticket to Edinburgh.

I was very excited for my first train ride ever, but I ended up having to wait over an hour because my train was so late. Eventually the train showed up and I settled into a random seat. An old Scottish woman settled in next to me and we had a lovely chat about Scotland. After an hour or so, the train cleared out most of the way and I grabbed a window seat so that I could take some pictures of the journey.

Train To EdinburghDurham CathedralTrain to Edinburgh 2

Train to Edinburgh 3Train to Edinburgh 4Train to Edinburgh

I met many nice people on the train that day. Not only did I talk at length with a woman from northern Scotland but I also met a man from Newcastle and we talked about traveling and Edinburgh. Eventually the train ride came to an end as we pulled into Edinburgh and I debarked.

Immediately I set off into the city without a map or any real sense of direction. I had a hunch about where my hostel was located but without a map or the address I was completely unable to find it. After an hour or so I had completed a full circle of downtown Edinburgh; I was done wandering so I purchased a map.

The map lead me quickly to my hostel (and had I followed my hunch then I’d have found it earlier) and I was surprised by how clean, nice, and cheap it was! It was run by the Scottish Youth Hostel Association and it was the hostel located in Central Edinburgh (map). I locked my backpack into my locker, made my bed, and set off with my map into the city. First, I made my way downtown and explored some of the sights in the area.

Lord Melville MonumentScott MonumentGiraffes

By now I was starving so I decided to find some food. I had planned to meet up with a friend at a rock bar called The Black Rose Tavern, so I headed that way to get some dinner. She wasn’t there yet so I went ahead and ordered Haggis, Neeps, and Tatties along with a pint of the local bitter.

Haggis, Neeps, and Tatties

The haggis was awesome! Neeps are little bits of turnip and tatties are mashed potatoes. I then walked back to the hostel to kill a few hours; I called my mother, sent some pictures to people, and waited for Dan to get in touch. Nine o’clock rolled around so I headed back to the Black Rose. Kit and I hung out, drank beer, and talked about random things. Dan called me eventually so I walked back to the hostel to get him. We returned to the Black Rose and drank more. Eventually karaoke started and I sang Just Dropped In by Kenny Rogers.

Our evening slowly wound down and Dan and I drunkenly made our way back to the hostel, stopping only to enjoy the finest take-away available: kebab. It was the first time I had ever eaten kebab and it was fantastic! Spicy, oily, and filling, the kebab filled me up so I could comfortably collapse into my bunkbed.

Europe 2010: Day 2

We woke up rather late this morning (and bearing the first hangover of the trip). After getting dressed and cleaned up a bit, Dan cooked a full english breakfast for the both of us. He made fried eggs, toast, beans, sausage, and bacon.

Full English Breakfast

Once we had gathered ourselves together, we set off for a tiny village called Heptonstall. Our goal in Heptonstall was to locate the grave of a wonderful American author, Sylvia Plath. I didn’t know that Sylvia had been buried in England but Dan’s girlfriend made brought it up and suggested I go and see her. Actually, once the idea had been planted, I decided that I should not stop at seeing Sylvia but that I should see the graves of as many writers and poets as I could while I was in England. Here are some photos I took on the way to Heptonstall.

Driving to HeptonstallDriving to HeptonstallDriving to Heptonstall

Now here are photos I took of Heptonstall and the graveyard.

Heptonstall ChurchyardGrave of Sylvia PlathView of Heptonstall

By the time we got back to Dan’s house we were pretty tired and hungry; Dan’s roommate suggested that we try the fish & chips at Brett’s in Headingly so we headed out again for this excellent meal:

Fish and Chips at Brett's in Headingly

So ended my second day in England. It may not have been the most full day I had there, but it was certainly one of the most memorable. I’ll never forget the grave of Sylvia Plath and I will do my best to return there someday.

Europe 2010: Day 1

I arrived in Manchester, UK after a series of plane flights that carried me from Seattle to Toronto to Copenhagen to London to Manchester. Upon my arrival in Manchester Airport I was grilled for details by the customs officer. After the usual details the customs officer was bothered by my lack of itinerary and lack of address where I would be staying. She ended up calling my friend Dan on his cell phone in order to verify that we actually knew each other. The icing on the cake was when she threatened to have me sent back to the USA simply because I didn’t know his address.

After the customs ordeal, I wandered outside to search for Dan. I looked for probably around an hour before he spotted me (thanks to my large brown hat). We got into his car and he told me that we’d be “taking the scenic route”; at the time, I had never encountered his driving before and I didn’t know this was simply an excuse to take small winding roads instead of the motorway.

We finally reached Dan’s house in Leeds and I met his girlfriend, Sharon. She suggested that we go to downtown Leeds and have a look at the shops. We wandered blindly for a bit before deciding to stop for a pint in a twee little pub that was located in an alley. I recall that I had the sunday dinner: roast pork, yorkshire pudding, mushy peas, and steamed vegetables. It went down nicely with a pint of a local bitter they served. For dessert I experienced sticky toffee pudding for the first time and it quickly stole the position as my favorite dessert.

With lunch out of the way, we ventured to the marketplace to have a look at the local shops. Sharon explained to me that in England it was quite a big deal for a town to receive a marketplace as it was like a validation of the town’s existence in the eyes of the government. I’ll share a few pictures that I took in the marketplace.

A vegetable stand in the Leeds MarketplaceA butcher in the Leeds MarketplaceA butcher in the Leeds Marketplace

Having had our fill of the marketplace, we wandered down towards the canals. Unfortunately I was only equipped with my iPod Touch at this point so the pictures I captured of the canals came out quite fuzzy. I did manage to snap a pretty cool picture of the locks though!

A series of locks in Leeds

We stopped in for a quick cup of coffee (at a Starbucks, no less) before heading home. The night was nearly over so we headed back to Dan’s and drank gin & tonics until we fell asleep. So ended the first day of my 2010 trip to Europe.